445 og hlyshaug gjør ting de ikke kan: Motoroverhaling

[445]

Har ikke du hlyshaug en skanner? Ble jo litt nyssjeggig nå?

Er du nyskjeggig får du barbere deg!

Jeg er også litt "nyskjeggig", og vil gjerne se innskannet fra denne publikasjonen.
Fint om du gjør dette i en egen tråd.

[Torbo2]

Uff da.. Må nok på skrivekurs, eller få meg nye briller. Et par er forresten til reparasjon, da glasset falt ut... Det må purres opp, nå har de skan brukt en uke på å få inn Pentax-glass. Jeg spurte forresten dama som solgte Pentax-glass om hun visste hva Pentax betydde? Men det visste hun ikke. Men elles er de flinke på SpecSavers, sikkert feil skrevet, men det var et forsøk)... "dyslexi light", håper det ordner seg....
Men skanning avventes, ikke for å mase men kun en regelrett purring!

[hlyshaug]

Jeg skal scanne, jeg.

Mvh
"Ubarbert"

[Torbo2]

Så bra!.. Det var det jeg visste at du ville meddele fine bilder som vanlig.. Ellers hadde jeg ikke spurt. I alle fall ikke masa...
ha en fin avslappet helg uten ubarbert masing...

[lukeball]

Not to change it up on you at the last minute, but I have decided to go a different route with my engine rebuild. I just purchased a Volvo B20 2130cc engine with only 24,000 miles on it for $1000 USD. It has the F head with larger 24mm valves and I am going to replace the cam with the ISKY VV-71. Current engine output is 170hp and about 150 ft/lbs torque. The head is ported, it has Volvo electronic igniton, and I am going to add a Weber DGES with a Volvo R-sport manifold; it should be awesome.

I went for this route because it was a lot cheaper and had more benefits than the B16. I am still going to save the B16 for a later time.

[445]

Wow!
I hope you will create a "Lukeballs B20i-project" here in this forum.
It will be very interesting to follow.

[Torbo2]

Not to change it up on you at the last minute, but I have decided to go a different route with my engine rebuild. I just purchased a Volvo B20 2130cc engine with only 24,000 miles on it for $1000 USD. It has the F head with larger 24mm valves and I am going to replace the cam with the ISKY VV-71. Current engine output is 170hp and about 150 ft/lbs torque. The head is ported, it has Volvo electronic igniton, and I am going to add a Weber DGES with a Volvo R-sport manifold; it should be awesome.

I went for this route because it was a lot cheaper and had more benefits than the B16. I am still going to save the B16 for a later time.

Several people have done this, but it's not just plug and play. There is different motor mounts, new holes, and another angle betveen the engine fix, and the foundation, need of new radiator an front?
12 volt ekctrical system and som on...
My be you are inspired of Nilssons B20/B22 in the Svedish Amazon-forum?

The lifterns you sendt hlyshaug were in very good condition, by the way.

[Torbo2]

705171 700171 VV-71 COMBINATION 26-62 62-26 .428 .020 268° A
This is more like Volvos C-kam
C std i B18/B20B med dubbla f�rgasare 9.9 111� 264� 1095:-
It sounds good..., but I would go for
705181 700181 VV-81 COMPETITION 35-71 71-35 .428 .020 286° A
It is more lik Volvos D-kam
D std i B20E till och med 1973 10.8 111� 280� 1095:-

And the D and K is the most intresting kam in the sortiment...
Then you har at possibility to get over 150 horsepower
I have tried both K and D, an D was best..
I tried R also, but the horses cam with 5000 + 0/min, and was useless for me in standard driving...
With the VV-71 and C-kam you haver trouble to get more than 120-130 hk power (DIN HK).
In luckys case may be up to 140-140 with many other things....?
Se Volvos:
Kamaxlar A-S B18/B20
Fabrikstillverkade kamaxlar till B18/B20. Ventillyftet �r ber�knat vid en vipparmsutv�xling p� 1.45:1
Ett �rs garanti vid samtidigt k�p av nya ventillyftare, best�llnings nr EV-513, 65:-/st. Monteringspasta 35:-
Se �ven tillbeh�r.
PROFIL V-LYFT
0-SPEL NOCKVINKEL DURATION PRIS

A std i B18/B20 med enkelf�rgasare 8.9 111� 248� 1095:-

C std i B18/B20B med dubbla f�rgasare 9.9 111� 264� 1095:-

D std i B20E till och med 1973 10.8 111� 280� 1095:-

K std i B20E fr�n och med 1974 10.8 111� 277� 1195:-

F kr�ver minst ett steg 2 topplock och dubbla 45:or 11.4 111� 300� 1095:-

R kr�ver minst ett steg 2 topplock och dubbla 45:or 11.6 102� 287� 1095:-

S kr�ver minst ett steg 3 till 4 topplock och dubbla 45:or 12.9 101� 300� 1095:-

P std kamaxel f�r marint bruk. Bra vridmoment. 1795:-

[Torbo2]

Take a look at this:
AN EXAMPLE USING AN RPM 300 CAM
Advanced Cam Position: If your intake happens to
come out with .100 gap, and the exhaust with say
.080 gap, your cam is in an advanced position. In this
position, the came will produce more low-speed power
or torque. However, there might be a slight loss of
power at high RPM.
Retarded Cam Position: If, on the other hand, the
intake came out with .080 gap, and the exhaust at
.100, your cam is in a retarded position. In this
position, there will be some loss in low-speed torque
and power, and probably some subsequent gain in
high-speed power.
Split Overlap: If the intake and exhaust gap read out
exactly even, or within .005 of each other, you have a
split overlap. Generally speaking, all racing cams run
best in the split overlap position. While there are
exceptions to this rule, it is usually best for overall
performance.

May be this i interesting?
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=1062&start=180
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=1273&start=30

[Torbo2]

Not to change it up on you at the last minute, but I have decided to go a different route with my engine rebuild. I just purchased a Volvo B20 2130cc engine with only 24,000 miles on it for $1000 USD. It has the F head with larger 24mm valves and I am going to replace the cam with the ISKY VV-71. Current engine output is 170hp and about 150 ft/lbs torque. The head is ported, it has Volvo electronic igniton, and I am going to add a Weber DGES with a Volvo R-sport manifold; it should be awesome.

I went for this route because it was a lot cheaper and had more benefits than the B16. I am still going to save the B16 for a later time.

Have you lukeball driven Route66, by the way?
Ohio is not so far away? or...?
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1317

Fikset skrivefeilen,

[hlyshaug]

Have you lukeball driven Route60, by the way?
Ohio is not so far away? or...?
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1317

I presume you mean Route 66, Torbo2?

[Torbo2]

Have you lukeball driven Route60, by the way?
Ohio is not so far away? or...?
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1317

I presume you mean Route 66, Torbo2?

Fikset... Route66!

Tenkte på min egen alder, som er nærmere 60 enn 40, ikke lett det her...

[lukeball]

The car will be converted from 6V to 12V. I am installing front disc brakes and upgrading the rear brake cylinders to 1". I am probably also going to add an iPD anti-roll bar. The B16 driveshaft will be upgraded to a stronger early B18 one that uses the same mounting, and I am rebuilding a M40 gearbox. Mounting the engine will not be difficult: the B16 engine mounts bolt onto the B20 and they will fit the Amazon crossmember. A different radiator is needed, and a new engine control mount on the firewall. I am also going to use a different bell housing for the hydraulic clutch. A Bosch blue coil will be added as well.

The Isky vv-61 compares to the Volvo C cam and the vv-71 to the D cam. The VV-71 has more duration, lift, and overlap than the D cam and it prefers a more free flowing head. I am considering a newer cam profile compared to the older Isky and Volvo ones. I may get the head ported more maybe like Stage II with more emphasis on the exhaust. I want to have really nice revving engine that is still very driveable and reliable for everyday street use.

I am still considering which cam I should use: Volvo D, Isky VV-71, ENEM K17 272 or a Schneider 274F. http://schneidercams.com/274F_VolvoB18solid.aspx Other cam specifications are here: http://www.1800philes.com/ianr/_superlist_grinds.html The powerband for most of these cams should be between 2000-6000rpm. The ENEM and Schneider cams use more modern profiles that I have heard are really nice.

I have never driven on Route 66, although it quite popular with older enthusiasts.

[Torbo2]

It sounds like the car gets a nice modification and everything is under control!
As I can see both Isky-cams have the higher lift than C-comb, as you say, but duration of VV81 is more similar to the Volvo D-comb. Since you were ask for about170 hp, I think VV-81 COMPETITION is the best choice. That was about what I get out from mine B22 engine.
VV71 have the same lift, but probably too small duration for good filling, may be up to 150 hp, even with step II cylinder heads and large carburetors?
But from the specifications I see that VV81 and D-cam is most similar in both duration and lift height, – if I look at my lists?
I see that you have done the research, so I think whatever you do you will to be happy.
As you browse the Volvo B18/B20-camshafts is of old construction, so it's conceivable that the newer type of scraping, like cam from KG Trimning whitch can give the most joy, or better work?

We see forward to hear from you...

[lukeball]

Torbo2, what is your actual name? You go by Torbo on the Swedish Amazon forum, right?

I don't want to go with the VV-81, because I think that it is too big. I would rather go with an F or R cam, if I was going to go larger. I would try VV-71 on the intake and VV-81 on the exhaust. Are you currently running for a cam in your B22? The D cam? Where can I buy a good D cam from?

Actually, what are the specifications for your motor? What carbs are you using? I can't seem to find a lot of information about good cams for the B22. What other cams would you recommend?

Lastly, is it ok that I am posting in this thread, or should I start a new one on this forum? Thanks.