Volvo PV-forum

Here are some pictures of my B16A. I am still running 6V, but I will probably never change to 12V.

Good! Interesting! And the sound? RPM in idle? Compression? Original timing adjustment?

AC alternator to 6 volt? that was special!
I think it will be difficult to obtain in Norway?
Or use the old regulator?
Using a stripped-down 12-volt regulator?
Can you tell me about that?

History of the car is also interesting if yoy have time to tell?

Hi Lukeball, and welcome to the Norwegian PV-forum.

It would be very interesting to see more pictures of your car, not only the engine.
Maybe you can create a new topic in "Min PV-Duett"?
"Lukeballs PV"
Then we can focus on the B-16 engine repair here.

Which supplier offers the Isky cam for USD 142?

I see you have a "hardy-slice" (axel-slice) on the steering axle! Is that normal for US.cars. Or it is only on some models?

The whole reason that I joined this forum was because I saw that you were building a B16. Overhere in the U.S., there are very few people that have B16 Volvos, and this is the first time that I have seen an actual build thread with pictures relating to the B16. I don't want to interfer with your thread, but I thought that I would just post a few pictures.

I don't have a PV, but a 1959 Volvo Amazon. You can check it out here: http://gallery.me.com/luke.ball#100040

The motor is all original with only 65,000 Km. The compression is good, and the motor sounds good, but your rebuilt motor sounds a lot smoother. There is no oil consumption, so I haven't opened the motor up. I have rebuilt the follow things though: Zenith 34VN, Bosch 6V 0.75HP starter, fuel pump, distributor, and water pump. The alternator is a newer 6V 60A AC-Delco one with a built-in regulator. It works great and only cost $60 USD. Static Timing is set at 5 degrees BTDC.

I have rebuilt every system in the car, and all that is left is the interior, body, and paint. The car was stored in Sweden and the last time that it had started was 1975. I will keep following this thread, and I am interested in the camshaft that you will be using. Later on, I also want to install a Judson Supercharger. ISKY sells the camshafts directly, but they only offer expedited shipping. http://iskycams.com/cart/index.php?main ... 0&cPath=15 Email them and see if they can ship it low cost directly to you.

On the steering axle, that piece is made of poly-urethane. I bought it from ipdusa.com The original was worn out.

Thank you.

Luke

Thanks! Interesting information!
now I see, but mine Amazon is unlike in many places, I have 69 modell with B20, Duett with B18 and my sons with B16, so im happy....
Now I vill look at the picture of your car an so on......

Kan det være noen å hente her hlyshaug?
Er du like flink å male som å slipe ventiler, så får du like fin motor som han her....
http://amazon.forum.bilia.se/phpbb3/vie ... 489#p95489

Hello again. I have been doing a lot of reading recently about camshafts. I have a better understanding about them, but are you experts abouts cams? I found this interesting site: http://www.1800philes.com/ianr/_superlist_grinds.html It deals with the B20, but it most likely applies to the B16 as well. The B16's compression is much lower than the later models, so if 8.5:1 is your max compression, then it may be better to find a lower duration cam. It seems like all the ISKY cams are pretty extreme.

A few questions: Are you going to use the Single Zenith Carb, or move to dual carburetors? Are you looking for great low end torque and better gas mileage, or higher end power? I will never exceed 130 km/h, so I don't need the high end, plus I don't know if the 3 main bearing crank could handle it or does high low end torque hurt the? I would like max power to be at 5000 RPMs or less. Another option is to buy a cam like the VV61 or VV71 and advance the timing, so that the power curve is moved lower. http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Cams/CamSpecTerms.aspx

Lastly, I suggest that you take a look at the different stock power curves for each engine. They are available in different service manuals. I can post them though if you are interested. The camshaft is the most critical part of the engine because it has the ability to change the engine's behavior completely. I really like the B14A, B16B, B16D, and B18A curves. I would like to find out if the Enem A10-248 cam could be cut on the B16 blank. The ISKY cams are old technology, and a newer developed cam could be better.

I would also like to see if Ellemann-Jakobsen could cut us a nice B16 camshaft. http://www.ellemann-jakobsen.se/index.html I talked with them before and they can grind cams in house. Let me know what you think.

It depends on what you want to achieve, some will have better driveability, someone will have the horsepower and tune up.

I`m not spesialist, butI have higher education in the motor and the combustion technique, experience and so on.

So I would think that this isky-comb can work well. Unless we adjust the cam 2-4 degrees for better torque around 2000 rev / min.
We will also increase compression slightly, for about 8:1 - 8,5:1

It depends on what you want to achieve, some will have better driveability, someone will have the horsepower and tune up.

But I would rather have the solutions C-, D- and K-cam provides
Note the lobe separation. During 105 to 108 degrees will go bad idle below 1200 r / min.
I used the R-cam for a while (102 degrees), but it was useless in city driving. Now I use D-cam from Volvo, the same as K-cam about. It provides plenty of power, and idle ok.
I have set it up 2 degrees in order to get more power from 2000 rev / min.

Otherwise it is mostly said in this article.

We are talking about tvo engines here. Hlyshaug will have a smooth and strong engine, B16, and the Swedish guy will have most power on B20.
Her is also a good place for good cams: http://www.kgtrimning.com/

The Swedish guy will have some other
http://amazon.forum.bilia.se/phpbb3/vie ... 489#p95489

Nå lurer jeg og sikkert mange andre på hvordan det går med motorprosjektet?

Tar gjerne en tur oppom og ser på "gosakene". Det jeg kunne bidra med er kanksje å får rikitig innstiling på tomgang:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcwY1hXy ... re=related
Her er trenger man jo ikke turteller, det er bare å telle donkingen...

Det har vært førjuls og julestille en periode.
I går møttes vi igjen og samlet trådene.
Hva har vi gjort? Hva gjør vi som neste punkt - og når?
Fikk gjort litt i går også. Regner med at hlyshaug kommer med fyldig bildedokumentasjon.

Til å trekke av registerdrevet trengs spesialverktøy SVO2250.

Det er det ikke mange som har, men hasse63 i den svenske Amazonklubben har en fin løsning:
Tegning med mål. Den passer både til B16 og B18....
Den 90 gradersvinkelen kan gjerne reduseres til 89 grader slik at den ikke glipper (altså at den tar tak ytterst på krokene )
Trolig en fordel å sveiseklørne fast i enheten slik at det ikke blir slakk.. Og så ville jeg rundet de skappe kantene ytterst.
Det vil nok fungere like bra med 10-12 mm gjenger kontra 16... . om man ikke har dreibenk og kan følge oppskriften helt...
Og tuppen kan lages litt halvkuleformet..


Drevet er av bakelitt, for å dempe støy, så derfor skal man være ytterst forsiktig for ikke å knekke tenner, trekke jevnt ut osv...

Da er tiden inne for en liten bildeoppdatering fra verkstedet:

Først kan vi melde at alle ventilseter er er tilpasset nye ventiler. En trebit holder orden i rekkefølgen til topplokket er klart...

Tiden er dermed inne for å ta ut kam- og veivaksel. Med 36 mm pipe (utlånt av Torbo2, samt trykkluftverktøy går det som en lek. Veivakselen holdes i ro med passende trevirke.


Reimskiva (i mangel av bedre fagterminologi) tas lett med Biltema-avdrager, hvis kvalitet for øvrig kan diskuteres...


Et steg videre. Reimskive og deksel til drevene som sitter i enden av kam- og veivaksel er fjernet. En skive på veivakselen gjenstår. Den sikres av en liten metallkile i veiva, og ble fjernet med dor og forsiktige hammerslag.


Greit å merke opp tannhjulenes plassering i forhold til hverandre. Kamakseldrevet er fabrikkmerket - veivakseldrevet har vi risset i selv.


Å fjerne drevene byr på utfordringer, da vi ikke har riktig avdrager. Et forsøk med Biltema-avdrager, en utrangert ventilløfter, key-clamps og tre bøyde bolter gjorde ikke susen. Men det gjorde at vi kom på å måle glippet mellom tannhjulene, dvs at Torbo2 stakk innom med måleutstyr. Glipp på 0,09 mm er godt innenfor normen på 0,12...

Torbo2 wrote:Til å trekke av registerdrevet trengs spesialverktøy SVO2250.

Som det fremgår av bilder startet jeg på et slikt verktøy, dog før jeg fikk se din fine tegning.
Skal sjekke om dette kan fungere.

Har også et "rom fullt" av spesialverktøy på jobben. Med litt flaks kan noe av dette passe, selv om det er beregnet til et annet merke.